Deer Stalking in Richmond Park

Known by many as simply the quickest way to get from Hounslow to Wandsworth, anyone who pauses to look at the rolling landscape as they drive through Richmond Park quickly realises that this is far more than a convenient shortcut. They may even be tempted to leave their car at one of the park’s several designated car parks and take an impromptu walk through the 2500 acres of pastoral land. They’ll be rewarded with a tremendous sense of discovery as they stumble upon some of the park’s more surprising features – from the steep approach to historic White Lodge, to the unrivalled view across 10 miles of London’s rooftops to St Paul’s Cathedral.

On one such walk, I parked up at Stag Lodge on Priory Lane along the park’s southern perimeter, and walked north/northwest in search of the park’s 650 free roaming deer.

It’s a steep climb past Martin’s Pond towards the suggestively named Spankers Hill Wood. It’s easy to become immersed in the pastoral setting and forget that you’re still within one of the busiest, most densely populated conurbations in the Western world. But the occasional glimpse through the treelined horizon provides a quick reminder – that’s Wembley Arch visible behind the tower blocks in the hazy distance.

The sense of wildness is an illusion, of course. Richmond Park isn’t as wild as, say, the Yorkshire moors; but even though the ground is heavily maintained (mostly by grazing), it’s certainly more countrified than a golf course. There’s a seemingly endless number of separate woodlands: Duchess’ Wood, Sidmouth Wood, Gibbet Wood, Treebox Wood, Two Storm Wood and so on. Nestled between these woods are a number of plantations – managed gardens such as White Lodge Plantations and the beautiful Isabella Plantation which always has a rich variety of colourful flowers on display.

The first deer sighting is a close-up of a true old majestic; worn-out, rather tired-looking and isolated from the herd (which we have yet to find).

But the second sighting, barely 100ft from the first, is more dramatic – lit through the evergreen foliage by a shaft of autumn sunlight.

From here the landscape takes a welcome turn downhill as we head towards King George V Jubilee Plantation and the Pen Ponds on the other side.

Did I say that Richmond Park doesn’t seem wild? Amid the lush greenery there are moments of pristine bleakness, like this view near King George V Jubilee Plantation:

And then the setting grows wilder still at the first of the twin Pen Ponds.

Formerly gravel pits, the Pen Ponds have looked pretty much as they are now for more than three centuries – the one exception being during World War II when they were drained to prevent them being used as a landmark by those friendly chaps from the Luftwaffe.

Now the ponds are again home to a variety of birds and aquatic life.

Getting to the Pen Ponds is straightforward as there’s nearby parking, approximately in the centre of the park.

As unexpectedly as ever, we spot our first parakeet of the day.

There are many theories about the rose-ringed parakeets’ unlikely existence across large areas of Richmond, Kingston and Twickenham; my favourite being that a crate of parakeet “extras” escaped from the film set of The African Queen which was shot at nearby Ealing Studios; another theory is that Jimi Hendrix released a pair in Carnaby Street and they quickly bred. Whatever their true origin, their presence in Richmond Park is somehow fitting, as just one more example of the royal park’s low-key eccentricity.

In the midst of the park’s wilder expanses, you’ll see occasional signs of civilisation, and a reminder that the grounds have been maintained for hundreds of years – since the days of King Edward in the late Thirteenth Century, in fact.

Nowadays though, the modern world can’t be avoided. The mellow thunder of planes following the flight path to Heathrow is ever present.

Heading north from Pen Ponds, still looking for those elusive deer, we walk past Leg of Mutton Pond and find a regal sight – the steep approach to White Lodge, home of the Royal Ballet School.

In the above photo, the trees on the left are the edge of Duchess Wood, with White Lodge Plantations behind them.

Finally, through the ancient trees of Saw Pit Plantation – and having walked virtually the full length of the park – we find the deer.

(They’re definitely there in the distance, you have to squint!)

For a moment we feel like Henry VIII on his early morning deer hunt, but for the Roehampton tower blocks behind the distant trees.

Camera and zoom lens in hand, we edge closer, tracking the herd as they graze amiably near Barn Wood Pond…

Then a stag approaches (it’s rutting season, after all) and with one accord they break into a run for the cover of nearby Two Storm Wood.

We’re long overdue for some refreshment, so we veer west and make for Pembroke Lodge, where we grab a coffee and snack, and collapse in patio chairs on the terrace overlooking the Thames Valley.

But if you take the time to clamber up to nearby King Henry VIII’s Mound, the highest point on Richmond Hill, the view is even more striking. Windsor Castle is visible 13 miles away, with nearby Ham House marking out the snaking route of the River Thames.

A burial mound back in prehistoric times, this elevation now marks one of London’s thirteen protected vistas, protected voraciously by planning designation. St Paul’s Cathedral, over 10 miles away, is visible from here through carefully pruned tree branches, over slate rooftops and through gaps in holly hedging.

It’s well worth the long trek to finish off with this spectacle; but now time is getting on.

We spot one last deer through the tall grass as we walk back to the car via Peg’s Pond and Gibbet Wood, and head for home.

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If you're interested in seeing St Paul's close-up, our London Walkabout Guide From Victoria Station to the Tower of London takes you straight past the historic cathedral, taking in a number of iconic landmarks and lesser-known attractions on the way.

We've also extended the guide with more photos, more details and an Explore More section, available on Kindle for the princely sum of 99 cents.